Simon Reeve Podcast Transcript - India

• A little background
• Where to go and what to see
• How should you get about?
• When should you go?
• A few points on language, money and your health

Welcome to this mini-guide. I'm Simon Reeve and I'll be your tour guide to the Indian Subcontinent.

As part of my job as an author and broadcaster, I've been fortunate enough to travel around the world making tv series such as Equator and Places That Don't Exist, which is just one of the reasons I've joined forces with the malaria awareness campaign to bring you this travellers guide to one of the most dynamic continents in the world.

In this podcast, I'll be giving you a few tips on what to see in the Indian Subcontinent, where to go, how to get around, and how to stay safe and healthy - very important.

But let's start with a little background information on the region.

When people talk about the subcontinent they're referring to a region that's sits on the Indian tectonic plate jutting out of Asia, and includes the modern states of Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Bhutan, Pakistan excluding the western province of Balochistan, the Maldives, Nepal, and - of course - India.

Myanmar (formerly Burma) is also sometimes grouped in the same region because it was part of British India for nearly a century and has strong ties to India.

Until the end of the 19th century, the Indian Subcontinent was collectively known as the East Indies by European colonists and traders.

Although the European powers colonised the subcontinent, most of the region had gained independence by the late 1940s.

The subcontinent is now one of the most densely-populated areas of the planet, with more than 1.6 billion people - that works out to an average of more than 300 people per square kilometre!

There are still lots of border disputes, simmering conflicts, repressive governments and endless poverty in the subcontinent. But there are also unique sights, smells and sounds that overload your senses and guarantee an extraordinary adventure.

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So, where should you go and what should you see:

The Indian Subcontinent is an incredibly diverse region and it's only possible to mention a few of the many highlights in this mini-guide.

But if we start in India, what trip would be complete without a visit to the Taj Mahal in Agra? This mausoleum - a UNESCO World Heritage Site - was created by the fifth Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in the 17th century as a tribute to his beloved wife. The emperor was so devastated by his loss that his hair is said to have turned white overnight.

While you're in Agra also have a look at the massive red sandstone Agra Fort, a real maze of rooms and chambers.

If you're a bit of a film buff maybe you'd enjoy a visit to the glitz and glamour of Mumbai - home to Bollywood cinema. Mumbai also has India's best nightlife, a riot of bazaars, shopping malls full of designer labels, and a fairly racey red-light district. All of this in a place that looks like a wealthy English industrial city that's been plonked-down in the sunshine.

In western India I'd recommend the huge temple at Ellora, the world's largest monolithic structure. Carved out of single chunk of rock - a mountain - the temple is one of the true wonders of the world. It was built between 755AD and 975AD, has dimensions twice the size of the Parthenon in Athens, and features a central temple set in a courtyard with a gabled front, intricate statues and towers - all carved out of the mountain. But perhaps the most incredible feature of the temple is that it is not alone: there are 34 gorgeous sculpted caves at Ellora, celebrating the Buddhist, Hindu and Jain faiths of their makers - who all worked along side each other to worship their various religious faiths, an almost unique example of different faiths working together harmoniously.

In recent years the region of Kashmir has been far from harmonious. This beautiful area used to be an essential stop on the hippy trail, but it's now been largely abandoned by tourists because of simmering conflict between separatist militants and the Indian security forces. But tourists are now returning to the lush Kashmir Valley, gawping at the vast numbers of lotus flowers on the surface of Dal Lake. This is a beautiful part of the subcontinent, but don't travel there without checking the security situation first.

If you're an adventurous type looking for a bit of physical exercise then the subcontinent has lots to offer. How about a Himalayan trekking adventure in Nepal or Bhutan? You'll be trekking amid spectacular scenery in the world's highest mountain chain, perhaps taking a guided stroll to the base of Mount Everest, the world's highest peak. It's best not to saunter through this area on your own as it's a real physical challenge and can be dangerous if you're not sure where you're going. But reputable hotels and travel agents can arrange guided tours with trained professionals who know what they're doing.

The little-known Himalayan region of India attracts only a handful of visitors, compared to the hordes visiting Tibet and Nepal. But the Indian Himalayas have much to offer, including monasteries and forts that have earned the region the title of 'Little Tibet'. I'd suggest a visit starting in the Kullu Valley; then a trek through pine forests and flowery meadows up to reach the soaring peaks of Indrashan and Deo Tibba. Then cross through the Hampta Pass before descending to the Chandra Valley and on to Ladakh. The trip would include some incredible panoramic views of soaring peaks and vast empty plains.

If you're heading for the Himalayas, why not try staying with locals. www.himalayan-homestays.com can help you find a place in the snow leopard capital of India, staying with warm and friendly villagers.

Moving-on, Bangladesh to the east of India has the largest mangrove forest in the world and scores of delightfully dilapidated mansions that once belonged to grand 19th century maharajas.

West of India, Pakistan has a bad image in the Western media, but it's a country with warm, welcoming people and amazing landscapes. Although Karachi, the sprawling port city, is a little bit crazy and can be tense for foreigners, Lahore is Pakistan's cultural capital, also known as the City of Gardens. It's a city of both busy streets and bazaars, but make sure you also visit the fort and Shalimar Gardens, both of which are UNESCO world heritage sites. For a contrast, Multan, in the lower Punjab, is thought to be the oldest surviving city on the subcontinent.

If you're drawn to the Indian Ocean then you might need to hurry. Thanks to global warming, the Maldives could soon be underwater. Few of the 1,200 islands in the 400-mile chain rises higher than 6ft above the sea, and islanders are already watching as large parts of their homeland are taken by the seas.

Sri Lanka is unlikely to sink for a while, although it was affected by the 2004 tsunami with loss of life and widespread environmental destruction. Many of the small coastal villages in the south and east of Sri Lanka were badly damaged and while there are now clear improvements, full rehabilitation will take a few more years. However, it still remains a beautiful part of the world and is packed with things to do. Visitors keep returning, so the Sri Lankans must be doing something right. Apart from great beaches and fantastic food, a holiday in Sri Lanka is also fairly cheap.

Elsewhere in the region, if you're thinking about visiting Myanmar please have a look on the internet and find out more about the political situation in the country. The repressive government in Myanmar uses forced labour to build tourist centres, and your money is likely to end-up in the pockets of the military dictatorship. On the other hand if you can funnel your money towards locals then they're really likely to benefit. Think about what you're doing and don't travel there without weighing up the pros and cons.

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Ok, with so much to see, at this point you might be wondering about the best way of getting around.

There are now dozens of private airlines servicing many destinations within India and the subcontinent. International flights to neighbouring countries can be good value especially between Kolkata and Dhaka in Bangladesh, and Delhi and Karachi in Pakistan.

If you want to travel by land the Indian Railways system has an excellent reputation and travelling on an Indian train can be a fantastic experience, albeit a little bit uncomfortable and frustrating.

Try to understand that people will get up close and personal, and just forgive them for it, otherwise you'll find yourself continually trying to defend your personal space.

The subcontinent is a huge area, but some parts - like certain Indian states - have very good bus connections.

Hiring a motorcycle and racing across India is also becoming popular with tourists, but is a dangerous way of getting around unless you're an experienced rider. You can imagine what damage tarmac and stones do to bare flesh when you come off a motorbike even at a low speed. It's not a pretty sight.

Instead, you could try hiring a car and driver. It's fairly cheap but it's best to do this via a reputable hotel - don't just saying yes to the first 'guide' who grabs your arm or your bag when you're heading towards a taxi. Remember to be polite, but firm.

However if you're someone who regularly gets dragged into shops in a foreign market, try forgetting being polite: just try walking past with more purpose, and just coldly ignore people when they say they're your new best friend and bytheway would you like a gold necklace. Hopefully you've already got quite enough friends.

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So, before you go rushing off to buy your ticket, you're probably wondering about the ideal time to go.

It's difficult to suggest the best time of the year because temperatures and rainfall varies from the north to the south.

Generally, India's climate is defined by three seasons: the hot season, the wet or monsoon season and the cool season.

Most people seem to think the best time to visit most places is during the cooler period -- generally November to mid-February.

I'd suggest that when you're plotting a trip you check-out the dates of particular festivals in the region you're aiming for. Some people are put-off by the chaos and the increased hotel prices, but festivals can be an incredible experience and well-worth a little extra expense and jostling with crowds.

There are very few festivals in the subcontinent in May and June; but the wedding season lasts from November to March, when you're likely to see at least one lively procession through the streets.

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A few points on language, money and your health:

English is spoken throughout the region partly due to the Brits colonising much of the subcontinent for more than 200 years. India actually has the world's largest population of English speakers, followed by the United States, China and finally the UK.

There's also nearly 20m English speakers in Pakistan, and lots of people speak or at least understand English elsewhere on the subcontinent. Whenever and wherever you're travelling, just speak a bit slower and more precisely than you normally do, rather than imitating Vicky Pollard. And learn at least a few words of the local language - it makes such a difference.

When it comes to money, credit cards and ATM machines are widely accepted and available in the major cities of India and Nepal, but in more rural areas cash is king. Banks, hotels and restaurants in most cities will accept American dollars or British pounds but your best bet is to do a bit of research before you go to ensure you'll have access to money while you're away. This region really does vary, so save yourself the hassle and find out before you travel. The Foreign Office website offers a lot of information on money, as do websites such as www.worldtravelguide.net

So on to health:

Perhaps more than any other region, the Indian Subcontinent is full of extremes. There's so much to take in and so much to enjoy.so to prevent you from getting too overwhelmed, it's important that you plan your adventure carefully and be sure to get medical advice before travelling.

Everyone's heard of Delhi Belly, and of course you need to make sure you don't eat salad washed with local water, or food that's undercooked but you also need to talk to your doctor, practice nurse or travel clinic about malaria and the other health risks in the subcontinent. There are some pretty deadly diseases out there, but thankfully, most of them are completely preventable.

Talking of malaria

Your doctor or travel clinic will give you advice on how to avoid getting bitten in the first place by using insect repellents and mosquito netting. Ideally you want to speak with them about eight weeks before you go to make sure you have the right jabs and medications. If you need them for where you're going they'll also help you find the antimalarial medication that's right for you and for your destination. Remember, those pesky mossies can kill - and it only takes one bite.

Advice is changing regularly on what malaria precautions are needed in popular tourist areas of India, such as Goa, so make sure you have the latest advice. It could save your life.

There are plenty of health websites out there with more information, including www.malariahotspots.co.uk which also has some useful links to other sites including the 'Know Before You Go' bit of - The Foreign and Commonwealth Office's travel site.

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Well, sadly we're coming to the end of this mini-guide to the Indian Subcontinent. Just a few more bits of advice: Because of the threat of terrorism throughout the Indian Subcontinent the Foreign Office does advise against travelling to certain just a few bits of the region. Bookmark the Foreign Office website and check it regularly for updates on the country you're interested in visiting. If you choose to visit a country against the Foreign Office's recommendations, don't forget to check your insurance policy - you might not be covered if anything goes wrong.

Wherever you're going, never board any boats, buses or trains that are overcrowded and don't forget to wear a seatbelt! Finally, please do your best to reduce the environmental impact of your travels. Enjoying the Indian subcontinent shouldn't cost the Earth.

Thanks for listening to this travel guide, which is sponsored by GlaxoSmithKline Travel Health and narrated by me, Simon Reeve.