Simon Reeve Podcast Transcript - South America

• A little background
• Where to go and what to see
• How can you get about?
• When should you go?
• Final Notes

Welcome to this mini-guide to South America. I'm Simon Reeve and as part of my job writing books and presenting tv series such as Equator and Places That Don't Exist, I've been lucky enough to travel around South America a few times, which is why I've teamed up with the malaria awareness campaign to bring you this travellers guide to the most exotic and diverse continent in the New World - sorry North America!

But let's start off with a little bit of background information on the continent.

The first settlers probably found their way to South America around 6500 BC by crossing the Bering Land Bridge, which connected present day Siberia to present day Alaska. Now of course, it's a bit easier to get directly to South America.

By the time Europeans first arrived of the coast of South America, there were probably more indigenous people living on the continent than there were in Europe. South Americans had advanced culture and sophisticated agriculture, but the Europeans had guns and they had strange germs and this combination led to the deaths of tens of millions of indigenous people in a slaughter now all but forgotten.

The Europeans soon took control when Portugal and Spain (the two great maritime powers of the time) began carving-up the world between them, they agreed that Spain would get the west of South America and Portugal would get the east.

South America was under mainly Spanish and Portuguese rule until the 1800's, when most of the colonies won their freedom by fighting for it, particularly in the South American Wars of Independence.

However a few countries didn't secure independence until the 20th century: Guyana gained independence from the UK in 1966, Suriname was released from Dutch control in 1975 and as of 2007, French Guiana still remains part of France.

South America is a fantastically varied continent but European powers, particularly Spain and Portugal have still managed to stamp their influence on almost every country.

Politically in recent decades right-wing rulers and military dictatorships have gradually lost power as South American governments have drifted to the left, with socialist leaders being elected in Chile, Bolivia, Brazil and Venezuela and leftist presidents in Argentina, Ecuador, Peru and Uruguay.

Many politicians in South America now think the future for the continent is for the countries to band together and integrate their economies - much like the European Union. It's a bit of an irony that while lots of Europeans look at South America and envy the lifestyle, sunshine and Carnival atmosphere, plenty of South Americans look at Europe and envy the stable politics, strong economy and lack of military coups.

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So where should you go and what should you see?

With lush jungles, deserts, endless rivers and rich social history, South America really is a treasure chest of possibilities. I've only got time to mention a few of the highlights in this guide, but I've compiled a brief list first of record-holding destinations that will have even the most seasoned traveller gasping and scrabbling for their camera.

South America is home to the world's largest rainforest (the Amazon), the world's largest river (the Amazon), the world's longest mountain range (the Andes) and the world's driest desert (the Atacama).

Standing at a whopping 3,212 feet, Angel Falls in Venezuela is the world's highest free-falling waterfall and La Paz, Bolivia, is the world's highest capital city.

Lake Titicaca on the border of Peru and Bolivia holds the title of the world's highest commercially navigable lake, while Puerto Toro, Chile, is the world's southernmost town.

One of the most famous sites in South America is Machu Picchu, also known as the Lost City of the Incas, which is perched on a ridge high up in the mountains of Peru. Forgotten for centuries, the city was re-discovered by American archaeologist Hiram Bingham in 1911. It was an extraordinary hide-out for the Incas, and includes parks, temples and - of course - lots of houses. If you make it there try to study the incredible brick-work - the Incas never really used the wheel, but they still managed to lug thousands of stones to the city and crafted them so they could fit together so tightly that even now you can't get a knife between the stones.

The only thing to warn you about when it comes to Machu Picchu is that you won't be the only person wanting to go there. The site is now attracting hundreds of thousands of people every year, so make sure you get up there early, or stay there really late, so you can enjoy the city without the presence of hordes of overweight Americans.

Machu Picchu lies roughly midway between the two ends of the Inca Trail, a network of trails and roads which used to connect the vast Inca Empire, and which is now becoming a really popular means of exploring the western edge of South America. The Inca trail extends from Santiago in Chile up to Quito in Ecuador - and exploring the trail, particularly the remoter parts, will give you an amazing view of life on the continent.

Having said all that my personal favourite countries to visit in South America are actually Brazil, Colombia and Argentina.

Brazil is a vast land offering everything from 7000km of coastline and pristine beaches to fantastic adventures in the steamy jungle, particularly in the far north and north-east near the Equator, which has been relatively untouched by loggers and farmers who have been decimating the rainforest further to the south.

The Amazon forest is a colossal 5.5 million square kilometres - covering half of Brazil - and the daily flow of the river is said to be enough to supply a major city like New York with enough water for ten years. However, despite being the biggest forest on the planet, at the current rate of deforestation it may not exist by the end of the century. Before the 1960's, access to the Amazon was fairly restricted but now, on average, just under 20,000 square kilometres of rainforest is lost to deforestation every year.

You might like to aim for the city of Manaus, an international port more than 1500 km inland from the mouth of the mighty Amazon - make sure you pop in to have a look at the opulent opera house in Manaus. It's a reminder of how much wealth the rubber industry generated for the area more than 100 years ago - everything was going very well for the locals until a cheeky Englishman managed to nick a rubber plant and the Brits started growing them more cheaply in Asia.

From Manaus you can head out into the unspoilt Rio Negro in search of dolphins, and then into the rainforest to stay in a jungle lodge where an astonishing array of wildlife will cluck and squawk around you.

Like everywhere in South America the twin passions in Brazil are music and footie. A basic understanding of the major international football celebrities is essential when travelling in South America, because everyone will want to quiz you about David Beckham and Michael Owen. And everywhere you go, in dusty backstreets and jungle clearings, you'll see people playing the 'beautiful game' - it's a religion.

But South Americans also love their music. The Brazilian coastal city of Salvador has a particular reputation as a place where the music just never stops - and for once the reputation is fully justified. It's a crazy town where descendants of African slaves have fused their culture with South America to create one of the most exciting music scenes on the continent. But it's a city with a bit of an edge, so don't forget to dress down, and - like everywhere - don't flash your cash.

Now we can't talk about Brazil without mentioning Carnival. This world renowned spectacular is held around forty days before Easter to mark the start of Lent and huge celebrations take place in Rio. This is one of the greatest and most exhilarating festivals on the planet, but it's also becoming a bit of a theme park attraction drawing tens of thousands of gawping tourists. Rio might have the biggest carnival in Brazil, but every city in the country puts on a spectacular display and you might want to check-out a carnival in a smaller city elsewhere in the country for a more authentic experience.

At carnival time you'll see endless groups preparing and rehearsing for their appearance, but don't think it's just the Brazillians who are obsessed with Carnival and partying in South America: Peru has more than 3000 festivals.

Now lets move north to Colombia - this country still has a terrible reputation as a land of drug lords and guerrillas. But the reality is that most of the country, is untouched by violence and for many people it's an up and coming tourist destination. Cities like Medellin and the capital Bogota, known as the Athens of Latin America, have vibrant nightlife and excellent restaurants. Or if you want to be a bit more active you could try a trek to the 'Lost City' hidden deep in the forest of the Sierra Nevada region of the country and dating back to the 5th century - BC. But this is not an option for those who puff when going upstairs: getting there is a real challenge.

Finally, Argentina has been through a tough time economically in recent years. But the spirit of the country is still strong. The capital Buenos Aires has a real air of European sophistication combined with a real sense of passion and soul. It's known as the Paris of the South, but even that doesn't do BA justice. With amazing designer bars and authentic neighbourhood restaurants serving melt-in-the-mouth beef, Buenos Aires is a real treat. But I also recommend leaving Buenos Aires behind and heading into Patagonia, where you can explore one of the world's truly remote areas. Alpine lakes, thermal springs and jaw-dropping glaciers await you in this pristine wilderness.

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So, how can you get about?

South America has many large, modern and well-connected cities, so you'll have plenty of options for safe and speedy travel. Buses and taxis are generally safe throughout South America, but, be careful to avoid over-crowded buses and hopping into just any old car. Make sure the taxi has seatbelts and always always buckle-up.

Throughout South America, but particularly, Brazil, Argentina and Venezuela there have been cases of muggings and kidnappings by bogus taxi drivers. Kidnappings for money are on the rise. In Rio and Sao Paulo in Brazil there has been an increase in gang related crime and it's best to be very careful in the cities - especially on public transport. Monitor the media before going - the British Government Foreign Office website is particularly helpful in keeping you up to date - and then when you get there, follow any local advice on areas to avoid.

If you want to travel from country to country you'll probably want to hop on an airline. South American airlines are generally very safe and prices are similar to European budget lines.

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So when should you go?

The majority of South America falls below the equator, which means the seasons are the exact opposite to those in the United Kingdom. Summer occurs from December through February and winter occurs from June through August. In the hottest regions closest to the equator, some visitors may find that 'winter' is the best time to visit.

Since the continent is so large, it is difficult to classify tourism patterns, but like everywhere, else crowds are going to be most common during high seasons, holidays, school vacation periods and events such as festivals. And as I already mentioned, carnival in Brazil always attracts huge crowds.

In terms of language, Spanish and Portuguese are the most common languages throughout South America, but, English and French are becoming more widely spoken.

If you're wondering about money, most shops, restaurants and hotels in South America prefer cash or credit cards over traveller's cheques.

In towns and cities, most major credit cards are widely accepted and throughout South America, ATM machines are linked to a network that probably includes your bank at home.

Cirrus and Plus are the two major networks - just check the back of your card to see what network you belong to. I f you're travelling to more remote areas, don't expect to be able to use your cards: as with everywhere in the world, cash is king.

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In terms of your health my advice for anyone visiting South America is to enjoy your trip but remember to plan your adventure carefully and take medical advice before travelling. Visit the British Foreign Office website to check their travel advice and talk to your GP, practice nurse or travel clinic ideally eight weeks beforehand to ensure you have the right jabs and antimalarial medications. Your life can depend on it.

You also need to remember that when it comes to your health, insect-borne diseases like malaria are rampant throughout the continent. In the past decade there's been a steady increase in malaria among the countries of the Amazon Basin region, which includes parts of Bolivia, Brazil, Colombia, Ecuador, Guyana, French Guiana, Peru, Suriname and Venezuela. Perhaps most worrying is the appearance of plasmodium falciparum in South America - this is the most deadly form of malaria.

I've been personally affected by malaria while travelling and I wouldn't wish it on anyone. It's a horrible disease and potentially fatal - but it's also preventable. Your doctor or travel clinic will give you advice on how to avoid getting bitten in the first place by using insect repellents and mosquito netting. They may also advise you to take antimalarial medication and will help you find the one that's right for you and for your destination. So make sure you go and get their advice. Remember, it only takes one bite, and those pesky mossies really can kill.

There are plenty of websites out there with more information, including www.malariahotspots.co.uk, which has some useful links to other sites including 'Know Before You Go' - the Foreign and Commonwealth Office's travel site.

 

Sadly we're coming to an end of this mini-guide to South America.

Just a couple more final bits of advice: always remember to wear both your seat-belt and a smile in South America - it's a sunny, friendly and fantastic region of our world.

Thanks for listening and I hope you enjoy your trip!

 

This travel guide is sponsored by GlaxoSmithKline Travel Health and was narrated by me, Simon Reeve.